PS2Mouse - Revision history

Polluks: /* Parts List */

2016-04-28T20:39:32Z

‎Parts List

Bryce at 12:29, 12 June 2015

2015-06-12T12:29:02Z

Bryce at 12:18, 4 October 2014

2014-10-04T12:18:00Z

Bryce at 17:50, 3 April 2011

2011-04-03T17:50:54Z

Bryce at 17:32, 3 April 2011

2011-04-03T17:32:18Z

Bryce at 17:15, 3 April 2011

2011-04-03T17:15:11Z

Bryce at 09:43, 2 March 2011

2011-03-02T09:43:51Z

MacDeath at 20:44, 19 December 2010

2010-12-19T20:44:47Z

Bryce at 14:02, 2 June 2010

2010-06-02T14:02:35Z

Bryce at 19:11, 1 June 2010

2010-06-01T19:11:07Z

@@ Line 44: / Line 44: @@
 |100nf Ceramic Capacitor||1
 |-
-|10K 1/4W Resistor||4
+|10K ¼W Resistor||4
 |-
-|4K7 1/4W Resistor||3
+|4K7 ¼W Resistor||3
 |-
-|470ohm 1/4W Resistor||1
+|470Ω ¼W Resistor||1
 |-
 |3mm LED Green||1
@@ Line 66: / Line 66: @@
 |5V Power Plug||1
 |-
-|160x100x1.5mm 35µ Single Sided photo-resist PCB||1
+|160×100×1.5mm 35µ Single Sided photo-resist PCB||1
 |-
 |}

@@ Line 30: / Line 30: @@
   {|{{Prettytable|width: 700px; font-size: 2em;}}
-|''Component''||''Quantity''||''Price''||''Total''
+|''Component''||''Quantity''
 |-
-|PIC16F84A-04P||1||2.40€||2.40€
+|PIC16F84A-04P||1
 |-
-|4 MHz Ceramic Resonator||1||0.10€||0.10€
+|4 MHz Ceramic Resonator||1
 |-
-|74LS240||1||0.27€||0.27€
+|74LS240||1
 |-
-|2N3904||2||0.04€||0.08€
+|2N3904||2
 |-
-|100µf 16V Electrolytic Capacitor||1||0.04€||0.04€
+|100µf 16V Electrolytic Capacitor||1
 |-
-|100nf Ceramic Capacitor||1||0.03€||0.03€
+|100nf Ceramic Capacitor||1
 |-
-|10K 1/4W Resistor||4||0.05€||0.20€
+|10K 1/4W Resistor||4
 |-
-|4K7 1/4W Resistor||3||0.05€||0.15€
+|4K7 1/4W Resistor||3
 |-
-|470ohm 1/4W Resistor||1||0.05€||0.05€
+|470ohm 1/4W Resistor||1
 |-
-|3mm LED Green||1||0.07€||0.07€
+|3mm LED Green||1
 |-
-|18 Pole IC Socket||1||0.04€||0.04€
+|18 Pole IC Socket||1
 |-
-|20 Pole IC Socket||1||0.04€||0.04€
+|20 Pole IC Socket||1
 |-
-|9 Pole D-Sub Connector 90°||1||0.24€||0.24€
+|9 Pole D-Sub Connector 90°||1
 |-
-|6 Pole Mini DIN Socket||1||0.53€||0.53€
+|6 Pole Mini DIN Socket||1
 |-
-|2 Pole DIP Switch||1||0.23€||0.23€
+|2 Pole DIP Switch||1
 |-
-|5V Power Socket||1||0.12€||0.12€
+|5V Power Socket||1
 |-
-|5V Power Plug||1||0.58€||0.58€
+|5V Power Plug||1
 |-
-|160x100x1.5mm 35µ Single Sided photo-resist PCB||1||1.70€||1.70€
+|160x100x1.5mm 35µ Single Sided photo-resist PCB||1
-|-
-|||||||6.87€
 |-
 |}

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:18, 4 October 2014
Line 183:		Line 183:

	[[File:CPC_PS2_Mouse_V10.HEX]] - Firmware V1.0		[[File:CPC_PS2_Mouse_V10.HEX]] - Firmware V1.0
		+
		+	[[File:CPC_PS2_Mouse_V1.01.hex]] - Firmware V1.01 (Use this version for single DIP switch version)

	[[File:JDM_16F84.pdf]] - PCB Track Layout for the PIC Programmer		[[File:JDM_16F84.pdf]] - PCB Track Layout for the PIC Programmer

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:50, 3 April 2011
Line 179:		Line 179:

	[[File:PS2Mouse_Components.pdf]] - PCB Component Layout		[[File:PS2Mouse_Components.pdf]] - PCB Component Layout
		+
		+	[[File:USBMouse_Layout.pdf]] - PCB Track Layout for USB version

	[[File:CPC_PS2_Mouse_V10.HEX]] - Firmware V1.0		[[File:CPC_PS2_Mouse_V10.HEX]] - Firmware V1.0

@@ Line 109: / Line 109: @@
 The 9 way Sub-D connector usually has two small bolts protruding left and right of the connector, if you remove these, the metal surround will fall off. I used some superglue to re-attach the metal part. It will work without the metal surround, but this will cause the circuit to bend the CPCs joystick pins over time, so I would recommend you do the same. I also added two M3 screws to hold the Sub-D connector to the PCB, this takes the stress off the pins below the connector, which could otherwise develop cracks in the solder over time as well.
-If you intend only using USB mice with the device, it may make more sense to use a USB socket instead of the PS/2 socket plus adapter. I may add the layout for this at a later stage if requested.
+If you intend only using USB mice with the device, it may make more sense to use a USB socket instead of the PS/2 socket plus adapter. I have now added a pure USB version layout below, the finished device looks like this:
 == Using The Mouse Adapter ==

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:15, 3 April 2011
Line 170:		Line 170:


−	[[File:PS2Mouse_Layout.pdf]] - PCB Track Layout	+	[[File:PS2Mouse_Layout.pdf]] - PCB Track Layout for PS/2 version with option switches

	[[File:PS2Mouse_Components.pdf]] - PCB Component Layout		[[File:PS2Mouse_Components.pdf]] - PCB Component Layout

@@ Line 5: / Line 5: @@
-The following project describes how to construct an AMX compatible PS/2 and USB Mouse adapter for the Amstrad CPC. I’ve never actually owned an [[AMX Mouse|AMX mouse]], in fact I’ve never even seen one other than in pictures. Back in the 80s I had no need for one, but with GUIs like [[FutureOS]] and [[SymbOS]] now available, I decided it was time to get my own… or at least build an equivalent. Like other projects that I’ve shared in the community, I’ve tried to keep this project as simple as possible to construct and as cheap as possible to build, otherwise it scares people from trying to build it for themselves. That said, you will need to be proficient at soldering and possibly need to produce your own PCB, if you wish for your end product to look like the one above. I have also supplied a single sided layout, to make it easier for those of us who like to produce our own PCBs. While designing the circuit, I realised that most modern mice have a scroll wheel which wasn’t available back then on the AMX. As the CPC has a few inputs spare on the port (Joy2), I decided to make them accessible by binding them to the Joy2 up and down signals. Although this isn’t strictly AMX compatible, I thought the people at [[SymbOS]] or [[FutureOS]], might like to take advantage of them, so consider this adapter is AMX+ compatible.
+The following project describes how to construct an AMX compatible PS/2 and USB Mouse adapter for the Amstrad CPC. I’ve never actually owned an [[AMX Mouse|AMX mouse]], in fact I’ve never even seen one other than in pictures. Back in the 80s I had no need for one, but with GUIs like [[FutureOS]] and [[SymbOS]] now available, I decided it was time to get my own… or at least build an equivalent. Like other projects that I’ve shared in the community, I’ve tried to keep this project as simple as possible to construct and as cheap as possible to build, otherwise it scares people from trying to build it for themselves. That said, you will need to be proficient at soldering and possibly need to produce your own PCB, if you want your end product to look like the one above. I have also supplied a single sided layout, to make it easier for those of us who like to produce our own PCBs. While designing the circuit, I realised that most modern mice have a scroll wheel which wasn’t available back then on the AMX. As the CPC has a few inputs spare on the port (Joy2), I decided to make them accessible by binding them to the Joy2 up and down signals. Although this isn’t strictly AMX compatible, I thought the people at [[SymbOS]] or [[FutureOS]], might like to take advantage of them, so consider this adapter is AMX+ compatible. However, due to the joystick ports being split on the CPC Plus series, the scroll wheel feature will only work on standard CPCs unless you create a jumper lead to recombine the two ports again on the Plus.
 == Warning / Disclaimer ==
@@ Line 105: / Line 105: @@
 The board presented here measures just 38mm x 60mm and should cause absolutely no stress to the CPCs connector. As well as that, remember that there are connectors left and right of the joystick port that you might want to use simultaneously, the layout here has been designed to keep both the sound socket and tape port free.
-A note to beginners: When soldering the parts to the board, always solder the most heat resistant parts first and leave the sensitive ones to last, this avoids destroying a successfully soldered transistor while trying to solder a resistor that’s right beside it. Also, although you may notice that I have soldered the 74LS240 into place, I wouldn’t advise beginners to try this, you will destroy it. Splash out on the extra 4 cents it costs for a suitable socket. If you’re an absolute beginner, there are even sockets available for transistors, but the spacing on this layout probably isn’t correct for them. Also remember that there are wire bridges under each of the ICs! These are really difficult to assemble, if the socket is already soldered into place!
+A note to beginners: When soldering the parts to the board, always solder the most heat resistant parts first and leave the sensitive ones to last, this avoids destroying a successfully soldered transistor while trying to solder a resistor that’s right beside it. Also, although you may notice that I have soldered the 74LS240 into place, I wouldn’t advise beginners to try this, you will destroy it. Splash out on the extra 4 cents it costs for a suitable socket. If you’re an absolute beginner, there are even sockets available for transistors, but the spacing on this layout probably isn’t correct for them. Also remember that there are wire bridges under each of the ICs! These are really difficult to assemble, if the socket or IC is already soldered into place!
 The 9 way Sub-D connector usually has two small bolts protruding left and right of the connector, if you remove these, the metal surround will fall off. I used some superglue to re-attach the metal part. It will work without the metal surround, but this will cause the circuit to bend the CPCs joystick pins over time, so I would recommend you do the same. I also added two M3 screws to hold the Sub-D connector to the PCB, this takes the stress off the pins below the connector, which could otherwise develop cracks in the solder over time as well.
@@ Line 133: / Line 133: @@
    Row9.Bit4 Joy1fire2 LOW when Left mouse button pressed
    Row9.Bit6 Joy1fire3 LOW when Middle mouse button pressed
-   Row6.Bit0 Joy2up    LOW when mouse wheel turned towards user (or when "6" pressed on keyboard)
+   Row6.Bit0 Joy2up    LOW when mouse wheel turned towards user (standard CPC only)
-   Row6.Bit1 Joy2down  LOW when mouse wheel turned towards screen (or when "5" pressed on keyboard)
+   Row6.Bit1 Joy2down  LOW when mouse wheel turned towards screen (standard CPC only)
 == Testing The Mouse ==

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:44, 19 December 2010
Line 230:		Line 230:
	Bryce.		Bryce.

−	[[Category:~~Hardware~~]] [[Category:Peripherals]] [[Category:DIY]]	+	[[Category:Input Device]] [[Category:Peripherals]] [[Category:DIY]]

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:02, 2 June 2010
Line 202:		Line 202:

	[[Image:InternalMouse3.jpg\|360px\|centre]]		[[Image:InternalMouse3.jpg\|360px\|centre]]
		+
		+
		+	== Compatible Software ==
		+
		+
		+	All software, that supports the original AMX mouse is compatible with this device, these include:
		+
		+
		+	[[The_Advanced_OCP_Art_Studio\|The Advanced OCP Art Studio]]
		+
		+	[[AMX_Art\|AMX Art]]
		+
		+	[[SymbOS]]
		+
		+	[[FutureOS]]

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:11, 1 June 2010
Line 177:		Line 177:

	[[File:JDM_16F84.pdf]] - PCB Track Layout for the PIC Programmer		[[File:JDM_16F84.pdf]] - PCB Track Layout for the PIC Programmer
		+
		+	== Wireless Internal Version ==
		+
		+	Using the exact same circuit as above, I decided to create an internal wireless mouse for my 6128. The wireless PS/2 mouse receiver I've used is a Logitech C-RA1 seen here in it's original state, which can often be found for a reasonable price at your local flea-market or on your favourite online auction site, but any wireless PS/2 mouse and receiver should work.
		+
		+
		+	[[Image:originallogi.jpg\|360px\|centre]]
		+
		+
		+	The circuit remains the same, except for the fact that I didn't solder any sockets on to the PCB, but added fly-leads for the power, LED, PS/2 and Joystick port connections. I used flat cable for the joystick port connects, so that it can easily be routed below the CPCs mainboard. After removing the receiver circuit board from it's housing and removing the PS/2 lead, I connected the PS/2 wires directly from the receiver board to the adapter PCB and mounted the adapter PCB inverted on top of the receiver.
		+
		+
		+	[[Image:InternalMouse1.jpg\|360px\|centre]]
		+
		+
		+	Unfortunately this particular model of wireless mouse has a relatively large receiver board, due to the receiver also having been used for the Logitech wireless mouse and keyboard combo. Despite this, there's room inside the 6128 to house everything, but you may notice I needed to relocate the earth strap from the mainboard to the drive bracket in order to make space. Alternative receivers might fit better however. The flat cable is routed below the mainboard and soldered directly to the contacts below the joystick port socket.
		+
		+
		+	[[Image:InternalMouse2.jpg\|360px\|centre]]
		+
		+
		+	At the rear of the CPC I added a power switch for when I don't intend using the mouse. I took the required 5V from the lead going to the disc drive. Any of the two black wires is ground, the orange wire is 5V. To avoid drilling even more holes in the original housing, I used a 3mm LED filed down a little and wedged it between the cooling grill at the top edge. Then all that was left to do was put everything back together and my 6128 was fitted out with a wireless AMX compatible mouse.
		+
		+
		+	[[Image:InternalMouse3.jpg\|360px\|centre]]
		+

	== Further Info ==		== Further Info ==