===<big>'''Documentation du System Development Kit pour le CTC-AY'''</big>===

Attention : Cette page est en construction actuellement, les spécifications pouvant être changées à tout moment.

Warning: this page is under construction so it is only avaible actually for french language (english translation will follow).

===Avant propos===

Le SDK du CTC-AY a pour but de faciliter le développement de produits pour le CTC-AY, principalement sous forme de cartouches totalement autonomes du fimware d'origine du CPC. Il se constitue d'outils et de bibliothèques de fonctions écrites en assembleur. Les bibliothèques visent à prendre en charge le matériel d'origine du CPC et celui du CTC-AY.
Ce SDK est orienté cross développement via un PC. Les outils PC sont disponibles et testés sous Windows XP et Windows 7 mais devraient fonctionner sans difficulté sous Windows 95/98.
Les bibliothèques sont au format source de Sjasm qui est l'assembleur choisi pour ce SDK. Moyennant une adaptation de la syntaxe, il est possible de les utiliser avec un autre cross assembleur.

===Prise en charge de la CPC Booster+===

Certains outils nécessitent l'extension CPC Booster+. Elle est même fortement recommandée pour transférer les données dans la cartouche sans avoir recours à d'autres supports. De plus, le BIOS fourni dans les cartouches intègre un moniteur permettant de tracer l'exécution d'un programme via la CPC Booster+.
La configuration des modules BlueTooth est également prise en charge de manière automatique pour les firmware LINVOR(HC06) et une console permettant une configuration manuelle est disponible pour les autres firmwares (HC05).

===Outils===

* BIOS
* Utilitaire de transfert CPC Booster+
* Configuration automatique BlueTooth (modules Linvor)
* Console de configuration manuelle BlueTooth (autre modules)

===Bibliothèques===

*[[CTC-AY_SDK_libCTC_fr|CTC]] (ctc.asm)
*CPC Booster+ (booster.asm)
*Couleurs (color.asm)
*Strings (string.asm)
*Clavier (keyboard_simple.asm , keyboard_advanced.asm)

===Programmes d'exemple===

*Redéfinition de touches (redef_key.asm)
*Prise en charge avancée du clavier Scancodes/SHIFT/CONTROL/CAPSLOCK (key_advanced.asm)

2011-06-12T15:20:56Z

Fano: /* Advanced testing */

The 6 MHz CPC is a DIY hardware modification which allows to run the [[CPC6128]] with a CPU speed of 6 MHz instead of the usual 4 MHz.

== Technic ==
The 16 MHz crystal of the CPC is replaced by a 24 MHz crystal. Both crystals should kept on the main board, but a switch (2 lines at least, better 3) selects between them. You have to select the CPU and bus speed before you switch on the CPC. Switching the speed while the system is switched on is not advised.
None of the authors of this article is responsible for danger on your CPC, in case you try to use this DIY.

== Advantages ==
* Z80 runs with 6 MHz
* Bus runs with 6 MHz
* FDC is 50% faster
* Disc formats with 50% more sectors can be used
* Sound is better, since PSG runs more quick
* Games run more fluid

== Disadvantages ==
* Not every hardware expansion is able to work with the 6 MHz bus speed
* FDC can't read old disc formats any longer
* Sound must be reprogrammed

== Software ==
* A lot of games run well with 6 MHz. For example: Nebulus, StarFox, Starstrike and others.
* There is a 6 MHz version of FutureOS

== Advanced testing ==
* Only horizontal timing of the CRTC is affected.In order to get a stable image , you need to program register 0 at 95 (96 characters line) and Register 2 at 61 (centering for 40 characters default)
* Pixels pitch is 66,7% of their original pitch.Theses pictures show this fact (320*200 mode 1 pixels with black border)
<gallery>
Image:12062011055.JPG|Original CPC @16Mhz
Image:12062011054.JPG|Overclocked CPC @24Mhz
</gallery>
* This speed improvement is 16.66667%.This has been tested with this simple program :

10 i = 0

20 after 500 goto 100

25 cls

30 i = i +1

40 ? i

50 goto 30

100 end

Score is 258 on normal CPC versus 301 on 24Mhz CPC.

(Theses results can be subject to discussion as we are not sure interrupts timing is not affected)

[[Category:DIY]][[Category:Hardware]]

6 MHz CPC

2011-06-12T15:08:22Z

Fano: /* Advanced testing */

6 MHz CPC

2011-06-12T15:02:07Z

Fano:

The 6 MHz CPC is a DIY hardware modification which allows to run the [[CPC6128]] with a CPU speed of 6 MHz instead of the usual 4 MHz.

== Technic ==
The 16 MHz crystal of the CPC is replaced by a 24 MHz crystal. Both crystals should kept on the main board, but a switch (2 lines at least, better 3) selects between them. You have to select the CPU and bus speed before you switch on the CPC. Switching the speed while the system is switched on is not advised.
None of the authors of this article is responsible for danger on your CPC, in case you try to use this DIY.

== Advantages ==
* Z80 runs with 6 MHz
* Bus runs with 6 MHz
* FDC is 50% faster
* Disc formats with 50% more sectors can be used
* Sound is better, since PSG runs more quick
* Games run more fluid

== Disadvantages ==
* Not every hardware expansion is able to work with the 6 MHz bus speed
* FDC can't read old disc formats any longer
* Sound must be reprogrammed

== Software ==
* A lot of games run well with 6 MHz. For example: Nebulus, StarFox, Starstrike and others.
* There is a 6 MHz version of FutureOS

== Advanced testing ==
* Only horizontal timing of the CRTC is affected.In order to get a stable image , you need to program register 0 at 95 (96 characters line) and Register 2 at 61 (centering for 40 characters default)
* Pixels pitch is 66,7% of their original pitch.Theses pictures show this fact (320*240 mode 1 pixels with black border)
<gallery>
Image:12062011055.JPG|Original CPC @16Mhz
Image:12062011054.JPG|Overclocked CPC @24Mhz
</gallery>
* This speed improvement is 16.66667%.This has been tested with this simple program :

10 i = 0

20 after 500 goto 100

25 cls

30 i = i +1

40 ? i

50 goto 30

100 end

Score is 258 on normal CPC versus 301 on 24Mhz CPC.

[[Category:DIY]][[Category:Hardware]]

File:12062011054.JPG

2011-06-12T14:52:04Z

Fano: CPC at 24Mhz

CPC at 24Mhz

File:12062011055.JPG

2011-06-12T14:47:37Z

Fano: Original 16Mhz CPC

Original 16Mhz CPC

User:Fano

2010-12-26T10:55:45Z

Fano: /* Planned */

Programmer , occasional graphist and hacker.

==Completed==
[[Rick dangerous 128+]] (2009)

==Prototyped==
Project [[Wildfire]] (2009-201?)

==Planned==
[[R-Type]] 128K (2011)

Greenfields 64K (2011)

==Tools==
My CPC toolkit for Windows (2009)

User:Fano

2010-12-26T09:16:38Z

Fano: /* Planned */

R-Type

2010-12-22T17:11:01Z

Fano: /* The Game */

[[Image:Rtype cover.jpg|thumb|200px|R-Type game cover]]

R-Type is a classical and cult Shoot'em up ported from the famous IREM's arcade game with the same name, released in 1987.

It was ported on almost every computer of the era. And was released on Amstrad CPC in 1988.

And despite being good, it remains an awfull [[Speccy Port]].

'''''You make one little mistake in your life and the internet will never let you live it down....'''''

'''''Electric Dreams / Activision gave me 21 days to do the port. I wish i had the time to do a nice mode 0 port with new graphics, but alas it was never to be.'''''

''Keith A Goodyer at CPCwiki forum, 02/25/2010 ''

==Game's Informations==

Company : Electric Dreams

Original game by : Bob PAPE

CPC version programmed/ported by : Keith A. GOODYER

Graphics by : MAK COMPUTER GRAPHICS, VIDEO IMAGES

Sound effects by : Richard STEVENSON

==The Fluff==

*The mission : defend the human race against the BYDO threat.
*The weapon : the R-9 spacefighter, equiped with "the Force", a fragment of Bydo flesh.
*The game : R-Type.

Blast off and strike the evil Bydo empire!

==The Game==

Considered nowadays as a classical horizontal shooter, R-Type introduced two revolutionnary concepts in gameplay :

*Extra module named "Force" that can be docked on front or behind the player ship.
*Loaded shot named "Beam".When you are loading the Beam , its power grows but you can not shot (except additionnal missiles)

The mastery of theses features is required if you want to master the game itself.

If not the first , R-Type was one of the first to introduce features like specific "super" enemies at end of each level called "Boss" , the well known giant battleship or destructibles levels.

With gorgeous "Gigerish" graphics , unforgetable soundtrack , perfect gameplay and innovant level design , R-Type became a legend of the video game.There are a lot of clones and sequels , a lot of shooters got inspiration from this game.

==The Port==

As said above, R-Type on CPC was a Speccy port.

Yet because the spectrum version was perhaps one of the best in the 8 bit area (and many say the best speccy game ever), the Amstrad version remained playable, fun, yet so disapointing... and by far inferior to the Spectrum's one.

It is well known the Amstrad R-Type is perhaps the worst version ever, yet this game remains good.

Animation was a bit sluggish, lacked the smooth moves and precision.

Scrolling was a bit saccaded.

Backgrounds were mono-coloured (a classical Speccy port feature) despite the Mode 1 screen displaying 5 colours...(maybe six...sometimes ?)

As usual, a Raster is included, just for nothing !

Sprites managed to feature a bit more colours, yet were afflicted by pseudo colour attributes : 8x8 pixels tiles were 1 bit coded, but sprites could feature different inks.

Sprites were not masked too, as unmasked sprites were a trick to avoid Colour Clashes on ZX spectrum...

Thanksfully, it still features no colour clashes.

*Comment from Arnoldemu: I looked at the code to discover why R-Type was like this.
Double buffer is not used, screen is located from &0040. &5800 even has attribute data just like on a real spectrum. &7800 has a copy of the attribute data (maybe double buffered so colours can be changed and then updated quickly). Screen is only updated where necessary. I think the same programmer worked on both the Spectrum and Amstrad version. Ok, start with the Spectrum version, remove some colours because the cpc can only display 4 colours in mode 1 (without using raster tricks), now use 90% Spectrum code and convert graphics at runtime into CPC form colouring them as you do this. The result is R-type. This explains all.. it explains why the colours are bad and why the game is so slow.

'''It is also to notice that the speccy version was itself ported (graphically) from the Atari ST version.'''

Yet the bad part : it came to Amstrad CPC from the AtariST, but stoped a byte at the Speccy before...

==The good Aspects==

As said the Spectrum version was good.

The main reason was because it was so close and faithfull to the Arcade version (the original).

* In graphics : the fine square pixels (Mode 1) allows fine details.
* In Gameplay : most enemies patterns were closely respected.

As a result, even the humble Amstrad version was very close to the Arcade, at least in gameplay (even sometimes more than the c64 version).

Also the Amstrad version did include good sound effects too... yet they were too few (and no real music).

It is also notable that the game was quite voluminous, as it included the full 8 levels... and very challenging too.

Last but not least, the intro screen was in Mode0 and quite nice.

== Screenshots ==

<gallery>
Image:Rtype.png|Intro screen
Image:rtype_lvl1.png|Level 1
Image:Rtype1.png|Level 8
</gallery>

Good exemple of pure fail:
*mono colour backgrounds
*unmasked sprites.
*colour attributes.

Yet the original design were faithfully ported and still awesome.

==The Cure==

[[File:RType original level 2 Cpc.gif|800px]]

Original Level 2.

[[File:Level2 plus.bmp|800px]]

Level 2 mock-up, redesigned by MacDeath.

[[File:Rtype128k_stage2.png|800px]]

Stage 2 map from upcoming 128k version by Easter Egg.

[[File:Carnivac games-r type-mode0.png]]

Mode 0 mock-up, courtesy of Carnivac Games.

== Game map ==

<gallery caption="R-Type game map">
image:rtype map.jpg
</gallery>

==Longplay videos==

source : Youtube.

{{#ev:youtube|t2Vo8dbBJig|300}}
{{#ev:youtube|G3UWCzzk2To|300}}
{{#ev:youtube|CmnBO8j7IQY|300}}
{{#ev:youtube|uxMz7EEDzjQ|300}}
{{#ev:youtube|Db2MPcuFwn4|300}}
{{#ev:youtube|oGbL5Da9NE8|300}}
{{#ev:youtube|arINXwvGdzQ|300}}
{{#ev:youtube|biTJY89DT0s|300}}

==Links==

*{{CPCPower|1848}}
*[http://www.irem.co.jp/e/official/r/index.html Official R-Type page at Irem web site]
*[http://www.sitedesteph.freesurf.fr/rtype/index.php A good site in French]
*{{EnWiki}}

[[Category:Games]]
[[Category:Games 1988]]
[[Category:Video contents]]
[[Category:Shoot them Up]]

R-Type

2010-12-22T12:28:23Z

Fano: /* The Game */

[[Image:Rtype cover.jpg|thumb|200px|R-Type game cover]]

R-Type is a classical and cult Shoot'em up ported from the famous IREM's arcade game with the same name, released in 1987.

It was ported on almost every computer of the era. And was released on Amstrad CPC in 1988.

And despite being good, it remains an awfull [[Speccy Port]].

'''''You make one little mistake in your life and the internet will never let you live it down....'''''

'''''Electric Dreams / Activision gave me 21 days to do the port. I wish i had the time to do a nice mode 0 port with new graphics, but alas it was never to be.'''''

''Keith A Goodyer at CPCwiki forum, 02/25/2010 ''

==Game's Informations==

Company : Electric Dreams

Original game by : Bob PAPE

CPC version programmed/ported by : Keith A. GOODYER

Graphics by : MAK COMPUTER GRAPHICS, VIDEO IMAGES

Sound effects by : Richard STEVENSON

==The Fluff==

*The mission : defend the human race against the BYDO threat.
*The weapon : the R-9 spacefighter, equiped with "the Force", a fragment of Bydo flesh.
*The game : R-Type.

Blast off and strike the evil Bydo empire!

==The Game==

Considered noway days as a classical horizontal shooter, R-Type introduced two revolutionnary concepts in gameplay :

*Extra module named "Force" that can be docked on front or behind the player ship.
*Loaded shot named "Beam".When you are loading the Beam , its power grows but you can not shot (except additionnal missiles)

The mastery of theses features is required if you want to master the game itself.

If not the first , R-Type was one of the first to introduce features like specific "super" enemies at end of each level called "Boss" , the well known giant battleship or destructibles levels.

With gorgeous "Gigerish" graphics , unforgetable soundtrack , perfect gameplay and innovant level design , R-Type became a legend of the wideo game.There are a lot of clones and sequels , a lot of shooters got inspiration from this game.

==The Port==

As said above, R-Type on CPC was a Speccy port.

Yet because the spectrum version was perhaps one of the best in the 8 bit area (and many say the best speccy game ever), the Amstrad version remained playable, fun, yet so disapointing... and by far inferior to the Spectrum's one.

It is well known the Amstrad R-Type is perhaps the worst version ever, yet this game remains good.

Animation was a bit sluggish, lacked the smooth moves and precision.

Scrolling was a bit saccaded.

Backgrounds were mono-coloured (a classical Speccy port feature) despite the Mode 1 screen displaying 5 colours...(maybe six...sometimes ?)

As usual, a Raster is included, just for nothing !

Sprites managed to feature a bit more colours, yet were afflicted by pseudo colour attributes : 8x8 pixels tiles were 1 bit coded, but sprites could feature different inks.

Sprites were not masked too, as unmasked sprites were a trick to avoid Colour Clashes on ZX spectrum...

Thanksfully, it still features no colour clashes.

*Comment from Arnoldemu: I looked at the code to discover why R-Type was like this.
Double buffer is not used, screen is located from &0040. &5800 even has attribute data just like on a real spectrum. &7800 has a copy of the attribute data (maybe double buffered so colours can be changed and then updated quickly). Screen is only updated where necessary. I think the same programmer worked on both the Spectrum and Amstrad version. Ok, start with the Spectrum version, remove some colours because the cpc can only display 4 colours in mode 1 (without using raster tricks), now use 90% Spectrum code and convert graphics at runtime into CPC form colouring them as you do this. The result is R-type. This explains all.. it explains why the colours are bad and why the game is so slow.

'''It is also to notice that the speccy version was itself ported (graphically) from the Atari ST version.'''

Yet the bad part : it came to Amstrad CPC from the AtariST, but stoped a byte at the Speccy before...

==The good Aspects==

As said the Spectrum version was good.

The main reason was because it was so close and faithfull to the Arcade version (the original).

* In graphics : the fine square pixels (Mode 1) allows fine details.
* In Gameplay : most enemies patterns were closely respected.

As a result, even the humble Amstrad version was very close to the Arcade, at least in gameplay (even sometimes more than the c64 version).

Also the Amstrad version did include good sound effects too... yet they were too few (and no real music).

It is also notable that the game was quite voluminous, as it included the full 8 levels... and very challenging too.

Last but not least, the intro screen was in Mode0 and quite nice.

== Screenshots ==

<gallery>
Image:Rtype.png|Intro screen
Image:rtype_lvl1.png|Level 1
Image:Rtype1.png|Level 8
</gallery>

Good exemple of pure fail:
*mono colour backgrounds
*unmasked sprites.
*colour attributes.

Yet the original design were faithfully ported and still awesome.

==The Cure==

[[File:RType original level 2 Cpc.gif|800px]]

Original Level 2.

[[File:Level2 plus.bmp|800px]]

Level 2 mock-up, redesigned by MacDeath.

[[File:Rtype128k_stage2.png|800px]]

Stage 2 map from upcoming 128k version by Easter Egg.

[[File:Carnivac games-r type-mode0.png]]

Mode 0 mock-up, courtesy of Carnivac Games.

== Game map ==

<gallery caption="R-Type game map">
image:rtype map.jpg
</gallery>

==Longplay videos==

source : Youtube.

{{#ev:youtube|t2Vo8dbBJig|300}}
{{#ev:youtube|G3UWCzzk2To|300}}
{{#ev:youtube|CmnBO8j7IQY|300}}
{{#ev:youtube|uxMz7EEDzjQ|300}}
{{#ev:youtube|Db2MPcuFwn4|300}}
{{#ev:youtube|oGbL5Da9NE8|300}}
{{#ev:youtube|arINXwvGdzQ|300}}
{{#ev:youtube|biTJY89DT0s|300}}

==Links==

*{{CPCPower|1848}}
*[http://www.irem.co.jp/e/official/r/index.html Official R-Type page at Irem web site]
*[http://www.sitedesteph.freesurf.fr/rtype/index.php A good site in French]
*{{EnWiki}}

[[Category:Games]]
[[Category:Games 1988]]
[[Category:Video contents]]
[[Category:Shoot them Up]]

File:Rtype lvl1.png

2010-12-21T12:42:27Z

Fano: uploaded a new version of "File:Rtype lvl1.png": (alien was cut)

File:Rtype lvl1.png

2010-12-21T12:40:27Z

Fano: uploaded a new version of "File:Rtype lvl1.png"

Xcontra

2010-11-17T12:47:50Z

Fano:

''XContra'' is a playable preview by [[Face Hugger]] released in 1994. It is based on the game ''Contra'', which was known as ''Gryzor'' on the Amstrad CPC. The game itself was never finished.

The game features nice, colourful graphics and excellent sideways scrolling, although it is not possible to kill any of the monsters that appear on the screen.

<gallery caption="Screenshots">
Image:XCONTRA screenshot 1.gif|
Image:XCONTRA screenshot 2.gif|
Image:XCONTRA screenshot 3.gif|<center>Mario is the guest star</center>
Image:XCONTRA screenshot 5.gif|<center>A nice large animated end-of-level monster</center>
Image:XCONTRA screenshot 4.gif|<center>A 'bug' in the last level!</center>
</gallery>

==Source Code==

Source code from [[Face Hugger]]

[[media:XContra.zip]]

[[Category:Demos]][[Category:Demos 1994]]

File:XContra.zip

2010-11-17T12:42:24Z

Fano: Source code for the Xcontra game prototype

Source code for the Xcontra game prototype

Guide on how to connect a 3.5" drive to a CPC6128/664

2010-11-11T09:42:28Z

Fano: /* Errors at this point */

'''Guide to hook up a 3.5" pc drive to your Amstrad CPC 6128 or 664 (For non-techy people like me).''' You can also check out another guide [[Guide on how to connect a 3.5 | here]]

This guide is for people who own 6128/664 cpc's that has the 34 pin EDGE connector type interfaces. I know that people in the UK and DK has the Edge connectors.

People in Germany use the CENTRONICS type connectors also some of the cpc PLUS range use Centronics. Centronics users need a different kind of cable.

== What you need (minimum requirements)==

- a pc 3.5" floppy drive
- a old style pc floppy cable
- a paperclip or a small piece of wire
- a powersource for the drive
- a 3.5" floppy disc

Suggest u also get:

- pins & jumpers or maybe some real switches.
- tape

== The Cable ==

By some amazing luck the 6128/664 use the exact same floppy-connector as a old 5.25" pc floppy drive. So all you need to connect up is a old style pc floppy cable that has both the old style 5.25" large edge connector and new style 3.5" small pc floppy connector.
Hardest part is probably to get one of these cables as they havnt really been used in years. If you have a 486 pc or older, try peeking inside to see if it has one of these cables, then you can easily borrow and replace it with a new style cable.

Looks like so:

[[Image:BelkinFloppy1.JPG|400px]]

But let give you a hand. BELKIN still sells this cable, I got mine locally but this one looks like its the one:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Belkin-Universa ... 36&sr=8-16

This is the 5 connector one, but a 3 connector one may also work if it has the right
kind/amount of connectors.

== The pc 3.5" Floppy drive ==

So far all the 3.5" drives ive tested all worked. The question is if you want a drive that is both compatible with 720kb floppies AND 1.44mb floppies.
All drives SEEM to work flawlessly with 720kb floppies .. but for some reason .. you get a LOT of read errors with SOME drives when you insert a 1.44mb floppy?

Quick fix: Use 720kb floppies only. 720kb floppies are hard to get, so just make some yourself from 1.44 floppies. Tape over the little "High Density" hole in the top left (both sides). That way the drive will think the floppy is 720kb only and act accordingly. Works Great.

[[Image:Floppies1.JPG|600px]]

=== Slow fix ===

find a drive that works with both size of floppies.
I say: a old TEAC FD-235HF drive works with both size floppies.
Hearsay from other sites: Alps & Mitsumi drives MAY work fully.
One way or the other i use the tape mod on all my 1.44mb floppies because it makes them compatible with all the drives i have.

=== Paperclip & more ===

All you really need is one piece of paperclip (the metal kind) to be able to make a single short on the floppy cable, but it would probably be better to get some proper pins and jumpers or some real small wires. Also if you wanna do some really fansy stuff, you might wanna get at least 3 paperclips/wires/pins/jumpers. (se later)
Motherboard pins are usually sold in long rows where you can break of smaller parts, like a set of 2 pins, then use normal pc jumpers on em to quickly set on/off.

[[Image:PinsJumpers1.JPG|400px]]

== Powersource ==

You need to power the 3.5" floppy drive somehow. A normal pc powersupply will do this quite nicely but there are "complications". A modern powersupply dosnt turn fully on unless it detects a motherboard is present.
There is 3 possible solutions to this problem:

1. drag a whole pc up next to your amstrad so u can power the floppy that way.

2. use another way to power the floppy.

3. cheat a modern pc powersupply to think a motherboard is present. Fooling a modern powersupply isnt really that hard .. all
u need is to connect the GREEN wire (ready signal) with one of the BLACK wires (ground). This works with both the 20 pin powersupplys and the newer 24 pin ones. Here is a shot of my 20 pin one:

[[Image:Psu20pin1.JPG|400px]]

Connected the green pin 14 wire with the black pin 13 wire. Note that i used pin 13 just because it was right next to pin 14 .. but any other black wire will work just as well.
The newer 24 pin powersupply can be fixed just like that, but note that the green wire is pin 16 on the 24 pin one. So a possible setup on the 24 pin setup could be green pin 16 connected with black pin 15.

=== More about powersupply pin layout here ===

20pin: http://www.hardwarebook.info/ATX_Power_Supply
24pin: http://www.hardwarebook.info/ATX_v2.2_Power_Supply

Note that VERY old powersupplies USED to turn on fully by themselves, so if u have a REALLY old pc u can see if it works.

=== Setting it all up ===

All u do is basicly the same as if you would hook up a FD1 drive to a cpc 6128. No soldering or disassembly required. Just hook up the cable to the DRIVE connetor on the Amstrad and the Floppy drive to the next edge connector on the cable.
Pretty hard to get it wrong as the edge connector only fits one way and usually the same is said the floppy connector. BUT .. there IS a few floppy drives that have the pins upside down, so u might need to twist the cable around once .. most likely not tho.

[[Image:CableOn1.JPG|600px]]

Note that this type of pc cable usually has some internally twisted cables .. make sure the CPC/PC does NOT have the twisted bit between them.

[[Image:IMGP1639 50%.jpg|600px]]

You can process the same way with only 1 drive 3"5 and 5"1/4 connectors , you can use the 3"5 connector before the edge card connector instead.

=== Setting the READY signal ===

Last thing you need to do is set the ready signal. This is done by connecting pin 33 and 34. Its the last 2 pins on the cable. Use a bend paperclip or a small wire to short the 2 pins like so (Marked in WHITE):

[[Image:CableClose1.JPG|600px]]

Thats it. Now u SHOULD have a fully working 3.5" B drive.

1. Power on the floppy first.

2. Then turn on the cpc.

=== Errors at this point ===

- You turn on the cpc but get a blank/rolling screen? '''Most likely the pc cable connector needs to be flipped over (pins are upside down)'''.

Type "|B" to change to drive B in basic (where ø is the rsx char). A simple CAT will show if the disc/drive works.

=== Other Errors at this point ===

- Bad Command? Floppy drive detected by cpc but is not powered. Recheck your powersupply is connected and working. - You turn on the cpc and both drives act-as-one .. and the floppy light is constantly on? Most likely you didnt short pin 33 & 34 .. is the paperclip/wire loose? .. or did you accidentally short pin 1 & 2 instead? Try moving the paperclip to the other end of the connector. - Read error on drive? Disc hasnt been formatted yet? Use software like Discology to quickly format drive B .. or to quicky copy a disc from A to B .. or make a test floppy on pc (see transfer bit later). - Disc is write protected error? Make sure the write tab on the disc is down (move tab down on right side of disc).

== Two heads (OPTIONAL) ==

Ok, everything is working so far? Want to do some more advanced stuff like using 2 sides on your floppy?

Easy enough .. right now your floppy is using head 1 (aka side 1).. if you also connect pin 31 and 32 it will change to side/head 2. Remove the short again to get back to side/head 1.
I must admit that i myself only use one side/head because i cant be bother with the switching sides/heads. But it might be worth it if you buy one of them fansy on/off switches from a electronics shop.
Pin 31&32 is marked in RED on picture.

== Making floppy primary drive(OPTIONAL) ==

Donno if you have ever tried running software straight from a B drive, but it usually sucks badly (software freeze up). Wouldnt it be nice to if you could turn drive B into drive A (and A into B)? Connect up pin 11 & 12 while the drive is on to do the drive switcheroo. Marked in BLUE (sixth pair of pins from top).
Make sure to remove the short after you have turned off the whole thing (or you will get a drives-act-as-one error on next bootup). So you will have to set the 11/12 pin each time you wanna do the drive switching .. This one however seems quite usefull .. off to the shop to get a switch

Another closeup of all 3 pairs of pins without doodlin:

[[Image:SuperClose1.JPG|400px]]

== And up and running ==

[[Image:AllUpAndRunning1.JPG|400px]]

Transfering software between CPC and PC:

Yup, a pc can read and write those 3.5" Amstrad formatted floppies. There is a handfull of pc utilities that can read/write to the floppies.

I suggest getting CPCDiskXP by Oscar Sanchez from http://www.cpcmania.com/

It reads a 1 side in about 100 seconds (with verify) .. and writing back 1 side takes about 25 second Runs in Windows XP/Vista using a nice lowlevel driver that you might recognise from Amiga- and Atari ST-discs reading pc tools.
Note that you can only use floppies from a INTERNAL floppy drive (a usb one wont work).
Seems to me that only the Amstrad is picky about if u use 1.44mb or 720kb floppies .. the pc has no such troubles, so ANY floppy drive may work on pc (from my experience). Also the tape-down-1.44-to-720-floppy-fix works on pc too.

== Things that pop'ed into my head reading up on all this ==

Using a whole pc to power the floppy is getting annoing and uncompfy, so my brain has been thinking in overdrive to come up with a solution.

1. use a normal external-IDE-HDD-USB-enclosure to power the drive .. All you need it the enclosure (with its powersupply) .. then fit a Y-split cable (a IDE-power to Floppy-power one). This is possible if u can find the Y-split cable:

[[Image:Ycable1.JPG|400px]]

2. use a usb-floppy drive .. dissassemble it and hook it up to pc or Wii or xbox 360 or pc or .. Donno if this is possible .. or if you need yet another type of Y-cable or other. Would look nice with one of them slimline usb-drives.

3. Not a tech wizz at all, but all u need to power a floppy is 5V ?? or do you also need the 12V too? Anyways, a couple of batteries on row might do that easy-ish.

== Worries and what not ==

What if i hook something up wrong will my Amstrad break? Nah, dont think so, I mean I did EVERYTHING wrong at least twice and both 6128 & 664 is still alive and running. Also I tried a LOT of things myself before with a FD1 cable and such. Still we are talking about electronics and all that, so do be carefull, and dont forget that everything should fit nicely .. no reason to force anything. OMG OMG my precius 20+ year old gem of a Amstrad just blew up in my face, will you takes full responsibility and buy me a new one? Eh?, sure i will .. not.

== FAQ ==

Q: Can I use a FD1 cable to connect a 3.5" floppy drive?

A: In theory yes, but its hard to set the ready signal. Connecting pin 33&34 is probably best done on the drive itself with a small piece of wire/metal. People who can solder will know how to fix the cable itself tho.

Q: Can i hook up a 3.5" to a cpc 464 like this?

A: No. Hooking up a 3.5" isnt possible without some serious soldering and you also need that DDI interface.

Q: Can i use a 3.5" on a 6128+ ?

A: Sure you can, but u need to make a cable that fits the the Centronics connector and since the pins is a bit upside down with the 6128+ its a bit more on the technical side. Look here for more:

http://www.pcwking1.netfirms.com/helpage34.html
http://genesis8.free.fr/amstrad/faq/
http://www.zettweb.com/semiconductors/h ... drive.html

Q: I got one of those german Schneider 6128 with Centronics connector?

A: Sure, but just like 6128+ its a bit more technical and need a special interface/cable made.

Look here:

http://www.amstrad-cpc.de/

Q: The floppy drive isnt registered at all .. not even getting errors?

A: Try cleaning the connector on the Amstrad.

Q: Can I use those odd format discs on the 3.5" ?

A: 41 track & other Amstrad formats works fine.

Q: Can i use the fully 720kb on the floppy?

A: You need a special rom like Parados to replace Amsdos to do that.

Q: Can i use a 3.5" floppy drive internally in my 6128/664?

A: Well, sure but u need to make another special cable bacause the real internal cable is a lot smaller than the usual pc floppy cable. Also you will need a power converter cable if u want to power the floppy from the inside. If you do use it internally you wont have to set the "primary" pin 11 & 12 as it is already primary.

== Thanks goes to ==

- [[Executioner]], [[UKmarkh]], [[JMD]], [[Wanderer]], [[Zeropolis79]], [[Gryzor]] and [[Ptr]] for great help and contributions to the guide.

- Everybody in the [http://cpczone.net Cpczone.net] forums for putting up with my rantings

- Anyone online who i stole info from

== Sorry About ==

I may have made a few assumtions .. especially about the floppy compatability based on from my own experiences and such. If im wrong let me know

My eeiiieenglish isnt the most fluid and correct spelled and all that, but is readable I hope.

== Links to other sites about 3.5" floppy drive hookup ==
[[Guide on how to connect a 3.5]] Another local guide

http://www.cpcmania.com/ (Spanish & English)

http://www.phenixinformatique.com/secti ... e&artid=67 (French)

http://www.amstradtoday.com/elements/up ... cteur2.htm (French)

http://www.terra.es/personal/diegovp/ (Spanish)

http://usuarios.lycos.es/putusoft/emucpc/softwaree.htm (Spanish)

== Great sources about anything CPC (including 3.5" connecting) ==

http://genesis8.free.fr/amstrad/faq/index.php or

http://www.faqs.org/faqs/amstrad8bit-faq/ (English/French/Dutch/German/Spanish)

http://www.cpcwiki.eu/index.php/Techni ... umentation (English)

http://www.amstrad-cpc.de/ (German)

== Tools to read CPC floppies on pc ==

CPCDiskXP: http://www.cpcmania.com/

ManageDsk: http://amstrad.cpc.free.fr/download.php ... es&sortby=

22DISK: http://www.znode51.de/specials/22disk/

ReadDSK/WriteDSK: http://www.julien-nevo.com/arkos/tools.html

CDPRead/CDPWrite: http://www.caprice32.cybercube.com/downloads.php

'''Cholo'''

[[Category:Hardware]] [[Category:Peripherals]] [[Category:DIY]][[Category:DATA Storage]]

Guide on how to connect a 3.5" drive to a CPC6128/664

2010-11-11T09:40:46Z

Fano: /* Setting it all up */

'''Guide to hook up a 3.5" pc drive to your Amstrad CPC 6128 or 664 (For non-techy people like me).''' You can also check out another guide [[Guide on how to connect a 3.5 | here]]

This guide is for people who own 6128/664 cpc's that has the 34 pin EDGE connector type interfaces. I know that people in the UK and DK has the Edge connectors.

People in Germany use the CENTRONICS type connectors also some of the cpc PLUS range use Centronics. Centronics users need a different kind of cable.

== What you need (minimum requirements)==

- a pc 3.5" floppy drive
- a old style pc floppy cable
- a paperclip or a small piece of wire
- a powersource for the drive
- a 3.5" floppy disc

Suggest u also get:

- pins & jumpers or maybe some real switches.
- tape

== The Cable ==

By some amazing luck the 6128/664 use the exact same floppy-connector as a old 5.25" pc floppy drive. So all you need to connect up is a old style pc floppy cable that has both the old style 5.25" large edge connector and new style 3.5" small pc floppy connector.
Hardest part is probably to get one of these cables as they havnt really been used in years. If you have a 486 pc or older, try peeking inside to see if it has one of these cables, then you can easily borrow and replace it with a new style cable.

Looks like so:

[[Image:BelkinFloppy1.JPG|400px]]

But let give you a hand. BELKIN still sells this cable, I got mine locally but this one looks like its the one:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Belkin-Universa ... 36&sr=8-16

This is the 5 connector one, but a 3 connector one may also work if it has the right
kind/amount of connectors.

== The pc 3.5" Floppy drive ==

So far all the 3.5" drives ive tested all worked. The question is if you want a drive that is both compatible with 720kb floppies AND 1.44mb floppies.
All drives SEEM to work flawlessly with 720kb floppies .. but for some reason .. you get a LOT of read errors with SOME drives when you insert a 1.44mb floppy?

Quick fix: Use 720kb floppies only. 720kb floppies are hard to get, so just make some yourself from 1.44 floppies. Tape over the little "High Density" hole in the top left (both sides). That way the drive will think the floppy is 720kb only and act accordingly. Works Great.

[[Image:Floppies1.JPG|600px]]

=== Slow fix ===

find a drive that works with both size of floppies.
I say: a old TEAC FD-235HF drive works with both size floppies.
Hearsay from other sites: Alps & Mitsumi drives MAY work fully.
One way or the other i use the tape mod on all my 1.44mb floppies because it makes them compatible with all the drives i have.

=== Paperclip & more ===

All you really need is one piece of paperclip (the metal kind) to be able to make a single short on the floppy cable, but it would probably be better to get some proper pins and jumpers or some real small wires. Also if you wanna do some really fansy stuff, you might wanna get at least 3 paperclips/wires/pins/jumpers. (se later)
Motherboard pins are usually sold in long rows where you can break of smaller parts, like a set of 2 pins, then use normal pc jumpers on em to quickly set on/off.

[[Image:PinsJumpers1.JPG|400px]]

== Powersource ==

You need to power the 3.5" floppy drive somehow. A normal pc powersupply will do this quite nicely but there are "complications". A modern powersupply dosnt turn fully on unless it detects a motherboard is present.
There is 3 possible solutions to this problem:

1. drag a whole pc up next to your amstrad so u can power the floppy that way.

2. use another way to power the floppy.

3. cheat a modern pc powersupply to think a motherboard is present. Fooling a modern powersupply isnt really that hard .. all
u need is to connect the GREEN wire (ready signal) with one of the BLACK wires (ground). This works with both the 20 pin powersupplys and the newer 24 pin ones. Here is a shot of my 20 pin one:

[[Image:Psu20pin1.JPG|400px]]

Connected the green pin 14 wire with the black pin 13 wire. Note that i used pin 13 just because it was right next to pin 14 .. but any other black wire will work just as well.
The newer 24 pin powersupply can be fixed just like that, but note that the green wire is pin 16 on the 24 pin one. So a possible setup on the 24 pin setup could be green pin 16 connected with black pin 15.

=== More about powersupply pin layout here ===

20pin: http://www.hardwarebook.info/ATX_Power_Supply
24pin: http://www.hardwarebook.info/ATX_v2.2_Power_Supply

Note that VERY old powersupplies USED to turn on fully by themselves, so if u have a REALLY old pc u can see if it works.

=== Setting it all up ===

All u do is basicly the same as if you would hook up a FD1 drive to a cpc 6128. No soldering or disassembly required. Just hook up the cable to the DRIVE connetor on the Amstrad and the Floppy drive to the next edge connector on the cable.
Pretty hard to get it wrong as the edge connector only fits one way and usually the same is said the floppy connector. BUT .. there IS a few floppy drives that have the pins upside down, so u might need to twist the cable around once .. most likely not tho.

[[Image:CableOn1.JPG|600px]]

Note that this type of pc cable usually has some internally twisted cables .. make sure the CPC/PC does NOT have the twisted bit between them.

[[Image:IMGP1639 50%.jpg|600px]]

You can process the same way with only 1 drive 3"5 and 5"1/4 connectors , you can use the 3"5 connector before the edge card connector instead.

=== Setting the READY signal ===

Last thing you need to do is set the ready signal. This is done by connecting pin 33 and 34. Its the last 2 pins on the cable. Use a bend paperclip or a small wire to short the 2 pins like so (Marked in WHITE):

[[Image:CableClose1.JPG|600px]]

Thats it. Now u SHOULD have a fully working 3.5" B drive.

1. Power on the floppy first.

2. Then turn on the cpc.

=== Errors at this point ===

- You turn on the cpc but get a blank/rolling screen? Most likely the pc cable connector needs to be flipped over (pins are upside down).

Type "|B" to change to drive B in basic (where ø is the rsx char). A simple CAT will show if the disc/drive works.

=== Other Errors at this point ===

- Bad Command? Floppy drive detected by cpc but is not powered. Recheck your powersupply is connected and working. - You turn on the cpc and both drives act-as-one .. and the floppy light is constantly on? Most likely you didnt short pin 33 & 34 .. is the paperclip/wire loose? .. or did you accidentally short pin 1 & 2 instead? Try moving the paperclip to the other end of the connector. - Read error on drive? Disc hasnt been formatted yet? Use software like Discology to quickly format drive B .. or to quicky copy a disc from A to B .. or make a test floppy on pc (see transfer bit later). - Disc is write protected error? Make sure the write tab on the disc is down (move tab down on right side of disc).

== Two heads (OPTIONAL) ==

Ok, everything is working so far? Want to do some more advanced stuff like using 2 sides on your floppy?

Easy enough .. right now your floppy is using head 1 (aka side 1).. if you also connect pin 31 and 32 it will change to side/head 2. Remove the short again to get back to side/head 1.
I must admit that i myself only use one side/head because i cant be bother with the switching sides/heads. But it might be worth it if you buy one of them fansy on/off switches from a electronics shop.
Pin 31&32 is marked in RED on picture.

== Making floppy primary drive(OPTIONAL) ==

Donno if you have ever tried running software straight from a B drive, but it usually sucks badly (software freeze up). Wouldnt it be nice to if you could turn drive B into drive A (and A into B)? Connect up pin 11 & 12 while the drive is on to do the drive switcheroo. Marked in BLUE (sixth pair of pins from top).
Make sure to remove the short after you have turned off the whole thing (or you will get a drives-act-as-one error on next bootup). So you will have to set the 11/12 pin each time you wanna do the drive switching .. This one however seems quite usefull .. off to the shop to get a switch

Another closeup of all 3 pairs of pins without doodlin:

[[Image:SuperClose1.JPG|400px]]

== And up and running ==

[[Image:AllUpAndRunning1.JPG|400px]]

Transfering software between CPC and PC:

Yup, a pc can read and write those 3.5" Amstrad formatted floppies. There is a handfull of pc utilities that can read/write to the floppies.

I suggest getting CPCDiskXP by Oscar Sanchez from http://www.cpcmania.com/

It reads a 1 side in about 100 seconds (with verify) .. and writing back 1 side takes about 25 second Runs in Windows XP/Vista using a nice lowlevel driver that you might recognise from Amiga- and Atari ST-discs reading pc tools.
Note that you can only use floppies from a INTERNAL floppy drive (a usb one wont work).
Seems to me that only the Amstrad is picky about if u use 1.44mb or 720kb floppies .. the pc has no such troubles, so ANY floppy drive may work on pc (from my experience). Also the tape-down-1.44-to-720-floppy-fix works on pc too.

== Things that pop'ed into my head reading up on all this ==

Using a whole pc to power the floppy is getting annoing and uncompfy, so my brain has been thinking in overdrive to come up with a solution.

1. use a normal external-IDE-HDD-USB-enclosure to power the drive .. All you need it the enclosure (with its powersupply) .. then fit a Y-split cable (a IDE-power to Floppy-power one). This is possible if u can find the Y-split cable:

[[Image:Ycable1.JPG|400px]]

2. use a usb-floppy drive .. dissassemble it and hook it up to pc or Wii or xbox 360 or pc or .. Donno if this is possible .. or if you need yet another type of Y-cable or other. Would look nice with one of them slimline usb-drives.

3. Not a tech wizz at all, but all u need to power a floppy is 5V ?? or do you also need the 12V too? Anyways, a couple of batteries on row might do that easy-ish.

== Worries and what not ==

What if i hook something up wrong will my Amstrad break? Nah, dont think so, I mean I did EVERYTHING wrong at least twice and both 6128 & 664 is still alive and running. Also I tried a LOT of things myself before with a FD1 cable and such. Still we are talking about electronics and all that, so do be carefull, and dont forget that everything should fit nicely .. no reason to force anything. OMG OMG my precius 20+ year old gem of a Amstrad just blew up in my face, will you takes full responsibility and buy me a new one? Eh?, sure i will .. not.

== FAQ ==

Q: Can I use a FD1 cable to connect a 3.5" floppy drive?

A: In theory yes, but its hard to set the ready signal. Connecting pin 33&34 is probably best done on the drive itself with a small piece of wire/metal. People who can solder will know how to fix the cable itself tho.

Q: Can i hook up a 3.5" to a cpc 464 like this?

A: No. Hooking up a 3.5" isnt possible without some serious soldering and you also need that DDI interface.

Q: Can i use a 3.5" on a 6128+ ?

A: Sure you can, but u need to make a cable that fits the the Centronics connector and since the pins is a bit upside down with the 6128+ its a bit more on the technical side. Look here for more:

http://www.pcwking1.netfirms.com/helpage34.html
http://genesis8.free.fr/amstrad/faq/
http://www.zettweb.com/semiconductors/h ... drive.html

Q: I got one of those german Schneider 6128 with Centronics connector?

A: Sure, but just like 6128+ its a bit more technical and need a special interface/cable made.

Look here:

http://www.amstrad-cpc.de/

Q: The floppy drive isnt registered at all .. not even getting errors?

A: Try cleaning the connector on the Amstrad.

Q: Can I use those odd format discs on the 3.5" ?

A: 41 track & other Amstrad formats works fine.

Q: Can i use the fully 720kb on the floppy?

A: You need a special rom like Parados to replace Amsdos to do that.

Q: Can i use a 3.5" floppy drive internally in my 6128/664?

A: Well, sure but u need to make another special cable bacause the real internal cable is a lot smaller than the usual pc floppy cable. Also you will need a power converter cable if u want to power the floppy from the inside. If you do use it internally you wont have to set the "primary" pin 11 & 12 as it is already primary.

== Thanks goes to ==

- [[Executioner]], [[UKmarkh]], [[JMD]], [[Wanderer]], [[Zeropolis79]], [[Gryzor]] and [[Ptr]] for great help and contributions to the guide.

- Everybody in the [http://cpczone.net Cpczone.net] forums for putting up with my rantings

- Anyone online who i stole info from

== Sorry About ==

I may have made a few assumtions .. especially about the floppy compatability based on from my own experiences and such. If im wrong let me know

My eeiiieenglish isnt the most fluid and correct spelled and all that, but is readable I hope.

== Links to other sites about 3.5" floppy drive hookup ==
[[Guide on how to connect a 3.5]] Another local guide

http://www.cpcmania.com/ (Spanish & English)

http://www.phenixinformatique.com/secti ... e&artid=67 (French)

http://www.amstradtoday.com/elements/up ... cteur2.htm (French)

http://www.terra.es/personal/diegovp/ (Spanish)

http://usuarios.lycos.es/putusoft/emucpc/softwaree.htm (Spanish)

== Great sources about anything CPC (including 3.5" connecting) ==

http://genesis8.free.fr/amstrad/faq/index.php or

http://www.faqs.org/faqs/amstrad8bit-faq/ (English/French/Dutch/German/Spanish)

http://www.cpcwiki.eu/index.php/Techni ... umentation (English)

http://www.amstrad-cpc.de/ (German)

== Tools to read CPC floppies on pc ==

CPCDiskXP: http://www.cpcmania.com/

ManageDsk: http://amstrad.cpc.free.fr/download.php ... es&sortby=

22DISK: http://www.znode51.de/specials/22disk/

ReadDSK/WriteDSK: http://www.julien-nevo.com/arkos/tools.html

CDPRead/CDPWrite: http://www.caprice32.cybercube.com/downloads.php

'''Cholo'''

[[Category:Hardware]] [[Category:Peripherals]] [[Category:DIY]][[Category:DATA Storage]]

File:IMGP1639 50%.jpg

2010-11-11T09:33:23Z

Fano: Same with simple cable

Same with simple cable

Color Lines

2010-07-01T11:41:12Z

Fano: reworked page from game documentation

Color Lines is a puzzle game based on “Lines”, a PC game by Oleg Demin.
The objective is simple; survive as long as possible, and achieve a high score!
Underneath the simplistic gameplay is a game that will fray your nerves and eat
into your free time.

Color Lines offers a large amount of music tracks from Tom & Jerry and a lot of skins from various authors.

==Rules for classic challenge mode==

The computer places three coloured pawns randomly on the game board.

The computer chooses three new pawns at random, and displays them in the
"Preview" area of the status panel on the right of the screen. These pawns
will be placed on the board during the next turn.

The cursor is displayed, and the player moves it and selects one of the pawns
to move. You must move a pawn during each turn; you cannot pass.

If you move a pawn and a line of at least five pawns of the same colour has not
been created, then the turn is finished.

If a horizontal, vertical or diagonal line of at least five pawns of the same
colour is created after moving a pawn, the computer removes the pawns from the
board and calculates the points that you have scored.
You can then move another pawn.

In order to move a pawn, a clear path to the new square must exist. In other
words, the pawn must be able to move to its new location, from square to
square, without any other pawns blocking its path. If the pawn cannot be moved,
the cursor flashes and the computer emits a beep.

== Gallery ==

'' ''<gallery> caption="Color Lines screen shots">
Image:cl_title.png|Title screen (Eldrik)
Image:Cl_menu.png|Main menu (Eldrik)
Image:Cl_sly.png|The gorgeous "Rollmops" skin by SuperSly
Image:Cl_zenith.png|Funny "Ghosts Inside" skin by Zenith
Image:Color_lines_package.jpg|Full package (contains 3" and 3"5 disk)
Image:Color lines front.jpg|Box

</gallery>

==Credits==
*Code, music and sound effects: Tom et Jerry / GPA

*Main graphics: Eldrik / GPA

*Beta testing: Eldrik / GPA, SuperSly / Les Sucres en Morceaux

*Proofreading of English instructions: Nicholas Campbell

*Cover and stickers: Lobo and Kukulcan

==Skin List and Authors==

*1) DIX HELL / CED
*2) PURPLE WAVE / CED
*3) RUST IN PEACE / ELDRIK
*4) GAMMA RAY / ELDRIK
*5) POWERSLAVE / ELDRIK
*6) SANCTUARIUM / ELDRIK
*7) BRICKS / FANO
*8) CHAOS / MAC DEATH
*9) AUTUMN FLAVOUR /NORI
*A) SECRET GARDEN / NORI
*B) LOST GALAXIES / PAPY CPC
*C) RIGOR MORTIS / REX
*D) ROLLMOPS / SUPERSLY
*E) SPARKLING / VOXFREAX
*F) RAINBOW / WINNER
*G) GHOST INSIDE / ZENITH

==Download==

Official page : http://tj.gpa.free.fr/

==Extra notes==
On a 128Kio CPC , there will be no extra loading.A physical distribution has been sold at AMSTRAD EXPO (25-27 June 2010).

This page has been made from game documentation.

Package images from Genesis8.

[[Category:Games]] [[Category:Games_2010]]

File:Color lines front.jpg

2010-07-01T11:37:21Z

Fano: